The best places to stay and eat in Cape Cod
The old Homestead, Provincetown
Where to stay
Nantucket Island Resorts comprises the classic White Elephant hotel (doubles from about £160), family-friendly White Elephant Village (doubles from about £140), set in immaculate grounds right on the harbour, and Jared Coffin House (doubles from about £120) in a downtown mansion. nantucketislandresorts.com
The resort’s Wauwinet hotel (doubles from about £140) in the remote north-east overlooks Nantucket Bay and boat transfers are laid on in summer from Nantucket town (for a full review see Gold List 2018). wauwinet.com
Greydon House (doubles from about £115) opened in summer 2016 and has quickly attracted attention as the fresh place to stay. greydonhouse.com
There are a number of lovely guesthouses in Provincetown, but Salt Hotels owns two of the best, Eben House (doubles from about £125) in a smart 1776 building on Bradford Street, and Salt House Inn (doubles from about £95) on quieter Conwell Street. New to Salt Hotels this season are a studio, a two-bedroom cottage and a four-bedroom house. salthotels.com
Over in the East End, there’s the beautifully curated Old Homestead Provincetown (from about £2,140 per week), a two-bedroom house that’s available to rent. theoldhomesteadprovincetown.com
Where to eat
Blueberry Pie at Happy Camper, Provincetown.
It’s worth standing in line at Black-Eyed Susan‘s for the brunch: sourdough French toast with caramelised pecans and Portuguese egg scramble. Seafood joint Cru is the place for Champagne and oysters with a waterfront view. Get your Stumptown Java fix at Roastd, a new cafe that also sells candles, lotion and vegan fudge. Set in what feels like a barn, Straight Wharf Restaurant serves island food including spicecrusted hake with cauliflower tabbouleh and individual clam bakes. At the Club Car a retrofitted railway carriage has morphed into a smart bistro with a menu that includes roast broccolini with tahini and dates.
Order lobster rolls or cod bahn mi at The Canteen, a summer shack with a hidden garden. Pick up picnic goodies at Pop+Dutch and go to Joon Bar + Kitchen for the duck-confit sliders and wood-fired mushrooms. Pepe’s Wharf is a P’Town favourite – have a Lime Ricky at the bar and watch the world float by.