Travel guide to Cape Cod

The best places to stay and eat in Cape Cod


The old Homestead, Provincetown

Where to stay

Nantucket Island Resorts comprises the classic White Elephant hotel (doubles from about £160), family-friendly White Elephant Village (doubles from about £140), set in immaculate grounds right on the harbour, and Jared Coffin House (doubles from about £120) in a downtown mansion. nantucketislandresorts.com

The resort’s Wauwinet hotel (doubles from about £140) in the remote north-east overlooks Nantucket Bay and boat transfers are laid on in summer from Nantucket town (for a full review see Gold List 2018). wauwinet.com

Greydon House (doubles from about £115) opened in summer 2016 and has quickly attracted attention as the fresh place to stay. greydonhouse.com

There are a number of lovely guesthouses in Provincetown, but Salt Hotels owns two of the best, Eben House (doubles from about £125) in a smart 1776 building on Bradford Street, and Salt House Inn (doubles from about £95) on quieter Conwell Street. New to Salt Hotels this season are a studio, a two-bedroom cottage and a four-bedroom house. salthotels.com

Over in the East End, there’s the beautifully curated Old Homestead Provincetown (from about £2,140 per week), a two-bedroom house that’s available to rent. theoldhomesteadprovincetown.com

Where to eat

Blueberry Pie at Happy Camper, Provincetown.
Blueberry Pie at Happy Camper, Provincetown.

NANTUCKET
It’s worth standing in line at Black-Eyed Susan‘s for the brunch: sourdough French toast with caramelised pecans and Portuguese egg scramble. Seafood joint Cru is the place for Champagne and oysters with a waterfront view. Get your Stumptown Java fix at Roastd, a new cafe that also sells candles, lotion and vegan fudge. Set in what feels like a barn, Straight Wharf Restaurant serves island food including spice­crusted hake with cauliflower tabbouleh and individual clam bakes. At the Club Car a retrofitted railway carriage has morphed into a smart bistro with a menu that includes roast broccolini with tahini and dates.

PROVINCETOWN
Order lobster rolls or cod bahn mi at The Canteen, a summer shack with a hidden garden. Pick up picnic goodies at Pop+Dutch and go to Joon Bar + Kitchen for the duck-confit sliders and wood-fired mushrooms. Pepe’s Wharf is a P’Town favourite – have a Lime Ricky at the bar and watch the world float by.

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