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“When you’re born there, you’re done for, there’s nowhere else that speaks to you more,” wrote Paul Cézanne to a friend, referring to his native city of Aix-en-Provence. Call it a grumbling avowal of love for the pine-covered countryside, rust rock quarries, blue skies and the limestone silhouette of Mont Sainte-Victoire. Reputedly timid, gruff, temperamental […]

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