Orion is tucked among a series of grand townhouses in the affluent South West London postcode, and marks Webb’s debut solo venture – six years after winning the BBC series.
French-inspired and British seafood-led, the restaurant blends classical technique with cooking rooted in seasonality and local produce.
What’s it Like?
Named after the Orion constellation, the medium-sized restaurant has a warm, relaxed feel, positioned as both a comfortable neighbourhood destination and a spot for special occasions.
The welcome was friendly, though slightly chaotic owing to an issue with the coat rack. Guests had to keep coats and bags at the table, which was not the smoothest of first impressions.
Once seated, however, service found its rhythm. An open kitchen adds energy to the dining room, offering a clear view of the chefs at work and reinforcing the craft behind each dish.
Around half of the tables are packed in quite tightly, so opt for one that has more space if possible.
Food and Drink
We began with oysters, which were fresh, briny and well prepared. Starters followed in the form of beef tartare and Orion’s prawn and lobster toast – with the latter instantly feeling like a signature dish.
The restaurant’s take on the classic Chinese inspired dish is standout. Crisp, deeply flavoured and unapologetically bold, the slightly charred exterior is intentional and adds depth.
Webb made the rounds during service, stopping by tables to speak with guests and proudly presenting the specials board, complete with the names of the boats the fish were sourced from. It’s a thoughtful touch that highlights both provenance and passion for the produce.
For mains, the grilled Cornish monkfish fillet with celeriac purée, pickle, remoulade, sea herbs and warm tartare sauce impressed with its balance of richness and freshness. The monkfish was meaty and well cooked, supported by bright, briny accents – and paired nicely with a bottle of Picpoule.
The hispi cabbage wrapped cod with pickled kohlrabi, seaweed powder, white bean cassoulet and dill oil was pleasant but less memorable – lacking the impact of some of the other stronger dishes.
Dessert brought a playful finish to the experience. Alex’s Twix promises a nostalgic reinterpretation of the famous bar, featuring Tonka bean shortbread, salted caramel, dark chocolate and crème fraîche ice cream.
Fun, indulgent and cleverly executed, it captures Webb’s light-hearted approach to pastry.
Service
After a slightly disorganised start, service was warm and attentive. Staff were knowledgeable about the menu and clearly enthusiastic about the restaurant’s opening.
Webb’s visible presence in the dining room adds a personal and engaging dimension, reinforcing the sense that this is a chef-led experience rather than lending his name to a launch.
From sanding the floors himself to involving his brother in the logo design, Orion has been a deeply hands-on project for Webb – and it shows.
Verdict
Opening a restaurant in the current climate is no small feat, and Orion represents a promising debut for Alex Webb’s solo career.
While there are a few minor areas to refine, the quality of the fish, the confidence of the cooking and the chef’s genuine involvement suggest strong potential.
Orion succeeds in offering both comfort and flair, combining French technique with British produce in a warm setting.
Best for Fish lovers, neighbourhood dining and relaxed special occasions.
Don’t miss The prawn and lobster toast and Alex’s Twix dessert.
Price Starters around £18. Main courses £32 to £38. It’s not inexpensive, but fair given the quality and sourcing.
Find it at 75-77 Ridgway, London SW19 4ST; 020 4646 9388; orionbyalexwebb.com
Review by Ruairi Ward
