DON’T SIT IN GROUPS of more than eight. Only remove your mask to drink. No food will be served… anywhere inside the stadium. With people imbibing let’s just say ‘substantial’ amounts of alcohol—what could possibly go wrong?
It’s safe to say that the Hong Kong Rugby Sevens—that legendary, debauched drinkfest and 72-hour party that used to be an annual must-visit for thousands of global fans—looks a very different proposition in 2022.
There are also those rules for any foreign visitors coming to Hong Kong. You need to be vaccinated, have a negative RAT test 24 hours pre-arrival, then on arrival undergo three days of ‘medical surveillance’ where an amber code on your phone forbids you from entering premises including restaurants, bars, gyms and clubs.
So far, so… not debauched drinkfest?
Hong Kong, however, has always defied expectations, and the odds. For example, that (very) bizarre rule on no food being available in the stadium? It’s still seemingly “under review.”
Where tickets were once notoriously difficult to secure, they’re now very much available. Hong Kong Stadium has been reduced to a capacity of 34,000 for 2022, and 23,000 three-day Sevens tickets have been sold to date, leaving 10,000 or so up for grabs. Get them from the official HKRU Ticketing Platform.
And low-cost carrier Scoot has even said that they are adding four extra flights a week from Singapore to Hong Kong from October 30, partly to cope with increased demand.
Whether you’re a Hong Kong resident or a visitor from overseas, once you get there, 16 teams from around the world will shed blood, sweat and tears on the pitch.
To avoid doing likewise as a spectator, here’s our indispensable guide to how to have a perfectly debauched Hong Kong Sevens 2022, and how to detox like a champion when it’s all done.
INDISPENSABLE INFO FOR A SMOOTH 2022 HONG KONG SEVENS
Getting there: Hong Kong Stadium in Causeway Bay. Unless you’ve had an epic all-nighter, take the MTR, follow the crowds and walk the 15 minutes or so to the stadium. For carb-loading along the way, hit the defiantly old-school Danish Bakery (it’s in no way Danish) on the corner of 106 Leighton Road and Caroline Hill Road for big buns, hot dogs and fried chicken.
Songs you need to know, word-for-word: Sweet Caroline by Neil Diamond. Livin’ On A Prayer by Bon Jovi. I’m Going to Be (500 Miles) by The Proclaimers. Hey Baby by DJ Ötz. And Sweet Caroline by Neil Diamond again, just in case you didn’t get the hint.
Costumes: Hit up Pottinger Street in Central or Ladies’ Market in Mongkok for last minute costumes. Entry to the infamous South Stand—especially on Saturday—is just not the same without one. Think Ninja Turtles or Nuns, Top Gun or Trump. Robbie McRobbie, CEO of the Hong Kong Rugby Union, wryly told Time magazine last month: “I envisage there will be a strong PPE element to the fancy dress.”
WHERE TO STAY
After 12 hours juggling jugs of lager, you don’t want to be waiting for non-existent taxis. These three hotels are all within a walk or two MTR stops of Hong Kong Stadium and the Sevens action.
The Upper House: Wan Chai is where many a night will end up so the effortlessly chic The Upper House in adjacent Admiralty should provide the perfect pad for well-heeled rugby fans. Their bar and restaurant Salisterra boasts some of Hong Kong’s best views, if you have the stamina to let the party continue.
The St. Regis Hong Kong: Located on the cusp of Causeway Bay and Wan Chai, this elegant retreat is the perfect antidote to Sevens madness. Zen-like calm and expansive rooms and suites make it an escape par excellence. Very walkable from the stadium, depending on your intake.
Crowne Plaza, Hong Kong: One of the closest hotels to The Stadium, Crowne Plaza offers 263 rooms and a rooftop bar and pool with great views over the famed Happy Valley racetrack below.
WHERE TO EAT
Mr. Wolf: One of the friendliest bars in Central, Mr. Wolf features a huge terrace along with fabulous dishes from British chef Jamie Draper. The full English breakfast and roasts are absolute winners, especially after a looooong night out, but Draper’s elevated bistro cuisine will also please the most discerning of palates.
Din Tai Fung: The Causeway Bay branch of the beloved Taiwanese brand should be quite the scene during The Sevens as food-deprived fans descend en masse for xiao long bao, rice dishes, dan dan noodles and dumplings galore.
The Magistracy: Tai Kwun in Central is an elegant heritage site, repurposing a 19th century government complex to an eating and drinking hub around a large central square. The Magistracy was once Hong Kong’s Supreme Court and is now an old-London-inspired restaurant from Black Sheep Restaurants’ Executive Chef Matthew Kirkley, serving classics like raw bar and prime rib.
Si Jie: Barely a 10-minute walk from Hong Kong stadium, Si Jie is beloved for fiery Sichuan cuisine to let you sweat out the day’s excesses. The set menu makes it great for groups. If you’re lucky, the lady who owns it will come and challenge you to drinking games. Seriously.
Chaat: Few meals are as restorative as a delicious fragrant curry and nowhere in Hong Kong does a finer version than Chaat at The Rosewood Hong Kong. For those staying in Kowloon—and if they can squeeze you in—you’ll be wowed by Chef Manav Tuli’s brilliant South Asian cuisine.
PUBS, CLUBS AND BARS
The Globe: One of the very few ‘proper’ pubs in Central with decent eats, a huge range of screens and plenty of beers to choose from. This place will be packed throughout the Sevens.
Captain’s Bar: This true institution at Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong has kept the city entertained for more than half a century. Compact, cozy and classic: think tankards of draught beer and perfect cocktails.
The Madhouse Causeway Bay: Though home to the Sevens, Causeway Bay is not overly endowed with great boozers, but The Madhouse is a 10-minute stagger from the ground, has 23 craft beers and ciders on tap, and is bigger than most Hong Kong watering holes.
The Quinary: A ‘multisensory cocktail bar’ may not seem a classic choice for rugby fans, but this spot on Hollywood Road is home to the official Hong Kong Sevens cocktail: The Grouse Party.
Lan Kwai Fong: Take your pick from dozens of bars and restaurants—of varying quality. Long a tourist draw, it will invariably be heaving over Sevens weekend and home to not a little carnage, once the matches have finished.
Wan Chai: If anywhere can beat LKF in the carnage stakes, it has to be Wan Chai. The former red-light district has faded somewhat in recent years, but you can still expect substantial party action with the rugby in town thanks to bars, clubs, restaurants and characters at every turn.
And now, DETOX: Where and how to heal yourself in Hong Kong after the 2022 Sevens
After 72 hours of almost no sleep and non-stop assault of your liver, you’re going to need to purge those accumulated toxins. These spots and experiences will definitely help:
The Four Seasons Spa
Still one of the best wellness spaces and retreats in Asia, The Four Seasons Spa will soothe, soak and massage away your recent excesses. The perfectly named Reawakening Ritual is a three-step treatment starting with a full body exfoliation, followed by a body wrap before finishing with a massage. Not only that, but spirulina is used, a powerful detoxifying agent “giving a radiant glow to your face and body.” Returning from The Sevens, that’s nothing short of miraculous.
The Grounds
A perfect spot to chill, The Grounds is a vast open-air entertainment space right on the waterfront in Central, boasting billion-dollar views. Book a socially distanced pod and kick back in style to the big screen. Aptly, the movie on Monday following The Sevens is Walk the Line, the Johnny Cash biopic. And yes, food and booze are all available with just a swipe of your phone, if the detox has become too much.
Beaches
South Bay and Repulse Bay are both on Hong Kong Island, offering plenty of space to soak up some autumn rays, take a dip and vow you are never going to drink again.
Hikes
November is the perfect time of year to hit Hong Kong’s stunning selection of trails. From Big Wave Bay to The Peak, there are hundreds of paths to follow. Just go prepared, with lots of water. Hiking solo with an epic hangover is definitely not recommended.
Tours
55 Eastern Hospital Road, So Kon Po, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong.
4 – 6 November, 2022
By Chris Dwyer
