Best things to do in Istanbul

Sitting astride Europe and Asia, the best things to do in Istanbul are a reflection of the colourful, clamorous culture-clash of East meets West in a fascinating city where old meets new, religion meets hedonism, and grandeur meets tumbledown. Its food alone is an exuberant coming-together of cuisines, from the ancient spice markets to contemporary waterfront restaurants. Part of the joy of Istanbul is following your nose, wandering up and down its steps and side streets to see what you might find and who you might meet. But make time, too, for a few of these memorable experiences, to immerse yourself in Istanbul’s soul and see this unique and many-layered city in its very best light.

Get steamed up

Hammam at Six Senses by Seldelek

For the full authentic hammam experience, sweat it out at Çemberlitaş Hamamı. Bathers lie on a circular marble slab beneath a dome inset with glass stars, through which rays of light pierce the steam. Afterwards, attendants scrub, press and pummel you until you beg for mercy. They do extras such as head massages and clay face masks, too. A more private, deluxe version can be had at Six Senses Kocataş Mansions, whose new spa offers various hammam treatments in a restored stone house beside the Bosphorus.

Address: Çemberlitaş Hamamı, Mollafenari, Vezirhan Cd. No:8, 34440 Fatih/İstanbul; Six Senses Kocataş Mansions, Merkez Mahallesi Meserburnu Caddesi, No: 5 Sarıyer, Istanbul, 34450

Website: cemberlitashamami.com; sixsenses.com

Must-see mosques

The Blue Mosque by Getty Images

Even people who find religious sights boring are inclined to visit Istanbul’s great mosques. And the greatest of them all is the many-domed Sultan Ahmed Mosque – known as The Blue Mosque for the hand-painted blue tiles which cover its awe-inspiring interior, and the blue paint around its domes – and, next door, the Hagia Sophia, radiant and golden within, light pouring through its high windows.

Address: The Blue Mosque, Binbirdirek, At Meydanı Cd No:10, 34122 Fatih/İstanbul; Hagia Sophia, Sultan Ahmet, Ayasofya Meydanı No:1, 34122 Fatih/İstanbul

Website: sultanahmetcamii.org; ayasofyacamii.gov.tr

And modernity

Istanbul’s contemporary art scene is raging right now. Take an art tour of Dolapdere, the city’s fast-emerging creative neighbourhood. Two major galleries are Dirimart, a pioneer of the scene, and Pilevneli, founded in 2017 by art-world player Murat Pilevneli; both showcase lively exhibitions and large-scale installations and sculptures by international and Turkish artists, both established and emerging. Contemporary art museum Arter, opened 2019, houses Turkey’s first permanent collection of modern and contemporary art, alongside workshops, performances, a library and bookshop, and a cafe, in Grimshaw Architects’ striking white, hand-glazed building.

Address: Dirimart, Hacı Ahmet Mahallesi Irmak Caddesi DLP 1-9, 34440 Beyoğlu; Pilevneli, Yenişehir, Irmak Cd. No:25, 34435 Beyoğlu/İstanbul; Arter, Yenişehir, Irmak Cd. No:13, 34435 Beyoğlu/İstanbul

Website: dirimart.com; pilevneli.com; arter.org.tr

Set sail at sunset or sunrise

Boat trip in Istanbul by Getty Images

Istanbul mornings start silvery, sunlight dancing on the Bosphorus; while the setting sun paints the water gold and the skies all fiery reds. One of the most picturesque things to do in Istanbul is watch the spectacle from the water, with clear views of the skyline, its landmarks illuminated. Charter a private boat (hotels can arrange all sorts), join a cruise or just hop on one of the public ferries which ply the Bosphorus.

Head to a bazaar

If ever shopping could be classed as a cultural experience, it’s in Istanbul. The city’s historic bazaars, like early shopping malls, are a colourful, sensorial insight into the way of life. The Spice Bazaar is fragrant with heaps of bright spices, herbs, teas and sweets; while the Grand Bazaar is the ultimate Aladdin’s Cave – among its 3,600 shops find not just dusty old lamps but precious stones, silver and gold, stained-glass chandeliers winking in the darkness, hand-knotted rugs and kilims in every colourway, handmade ceramics you never knew you needed. Haggling is part of the experience, but do some research beforehand to get an idea of what you should be paying, so you can cut to the chase. And leave a lot of room in your suitcase to take your finds home.

Address: (The Spice Bazaar) Mısır Çarşısı, Rüstem Paşa, Erzak Ambarı Sok. No:92, 34116 Fatih/İstanbul; (The Grand Bazaar) Kapali Çarsi, Beyazıt, Kalpakçılar Cd. No:22, 34126 Fatih/İstanbul

Dance like a Dervish

The Whirling Dervish shows like that at Galata Tower are aimed at tourists – but if you want to go dancing with locals then head for Lucca, in the well-heeled waterfront neighbourhood of Bebek. By day, it’s a bistro and cocktail bar; after dark, the city’s most glam party destination for smart Istanbulites, with DJs on the decks every night and packed with gorgeous young things at weekends.

Address: Lucca, Bebek, Cevdet Paşa Cd. 51/A, 34342 Sarıyer/İstanbul
Website: luccastyle.com

Sleep in an Ottoman Palace

Ottoman Mansion by Getty Images

Ottoman sultans commissioned the most extraordinarily lavish residences – vast, marbled, gilded, and elaborately embellished inside and out. Many are now museums (Topkapı Palace and Dolmabahçe are highlights), while others have been turned into hotels, and the grandest is 19th-century Ciragan Palace, a waterfront wedding cake of a building in creamy marble, exquisitely carved. Now run by Kempinski, its five stars barely do it justice. Its Sultan Suite – two bedrooms, a dining table for 12, Bosphorus views through full-length windows, and canopied beds – is one of the most luxurious and, at €50,000 a night, one of the most expensive in the world.

Address: Ciragan Palace Kempinski, Yıldız, Çırağan Cd. No:32, 34349 Beşiktaş/İstanbul

Eat on the street

Food stand selling Simit, which is a round crusted bread usually topped with sesame seeds by Getty Images

Street food can get a bad rap, but Istanbul’s version of the “wrap” – known as a dürüm – is delicious and safe. Here, you can basically eat on the go from breakfast to dinner. Start the day with a “simit”, a twisted, circular roll covered in sesame seeds, preferably fresh from the wood-fired oven. There are itinerant sellers everywhere, and you can usually buy a triangular wedge of spreadable cream cheese to go with it. For lunch, try quintessential Istanbul balık ekmek (fish bread): a fresh grilled fillet of fish shoved into half a loaf of crusty white bread, with optional extras. For dinner, you can try kumpir: these stalls take baked potatoes to a new level, with dozens of possible toppings. Finally, for dessert, have a maraş dondurma: a Turkish traditional ice cream containing “sahlep” derived from a wild orchid root indigenous to Turkey that makes it chewy and stretchy. The sellers often ring a bell and play complicated games with the cones, taunting customers.

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