This Gorgeous Hotel in Beirut is a Gateway to the City’s Innovative Arts Scene

THE CITIES THAT MOST ENCHANT me wear their histories on their sleeves. I once visited a fashionable boutique in a hidden courtyard in Berlin, its façade pockmarked with bullet holes from World War II. In Jerusalem, I had an epic multicourse meal at a throbbing café with all-white décor, then ended the night watching black-clad pilgrims rock back and forth in front of the Wailing Wall. It was an exhilarating and disquieting experience, like finding a portal that could transport me between centuries. This fascination with places where the past rubs provocatively against the present is the reason I couldn’t wait to see Beirut, an ancient port city that has survived centuries of violent conflict and destruction. I was told

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